I have some 10/3, can I use it for both the AC in AND out of an AIO

[ryankshaw]

I am wiring up an MPP PIP 2024 LV-MK All-in-One unit in my Surveyor Legend Travel trailer. I am planning on diverting the AC power in from shore power directly into the all-in-one and then connecting the output of the all-in-one into where the shore power came into the main AC breaker box of the trailer. With the net result that if I am plugged into shore power, the AIO goes into bypass mode and everything in the trailer is powered from shore power, and if I am not plugged in then everything will run off the inverter. (and I will use a 24v to 12v buck converter to power the 12v system)

First question:
Does that seem reasonable? I know I can only put out 2000w (16amps at 120v) while on inverter mode but I also know the trailer technically has a 30 amp plug. Would I be ok to run anything I wanted in the trailer while in bypass mode? Like the Air Conditioner at the same time as the microwave? or is pushing that much through the AIO not ok, even when it is in bypass mode?

Second question:
I have some leftover Romex simpull awg 10 CU 3 CDR with AWG 10 Ground wire. can I use that wire for both the A/C in AND A/C out of the all-in-one? as in, can I wire the black wire to the LINE of the input, the red wire to the LINE of the output, the white wire to Neutral of BOTH the input AND output, and the Ground to both the Ground of the input and the Ground of the output? I feel sheepish even asking that question and I for sure can just get some 10/2 wire and wire it like normal but I figured I'd at least ask so I could learn why that would not be ok.

 

[FilterGuy]

Does that seem reasonable? I know I can only put out 2000w (16amps at 120v) while on inverter mode but I also know the trailer technically has a 30 amp plug. Would I be ok to run anything I wanted in the trailer while in bypass mode? Like the Air Conditioner at the same time as the microwave? or is pushing that much through the AIO not ok, even when it is in bypass mode?

I just looked at the manual and could not find a rating for the bypass current. You would need to get that information to answer this question.
You could open up the inverter and find the bypass relays, then look up their rating.

Second question:
I have some leftover Romex simpull awg 10 CU 3 CDR with AWG 10 Ground wire. can I use that wire for both the A/C in AND A/C out of the all-in-one? as in, can I wire the black wire to the LINE of the input, the red wire to the LINE of the output, the white wire to Neutral of BOTH the input AND output, and the Ground to both the Ground of the input and the Ground of the output? I feel sheepish even asking that question and I for sure can just get some 10/2 wire and wire it like normal but I figured I'd at least ask so I could learn why that would not be ok.

In general, using stranded wire in a mobile install is better. Over time, solid wire can break due to the vibrations and movement.

Besides that......
That inverter almost certainly does dynamic N-G bonding, so you must keep the input and output neutral separate. Otherwise, you will end up with problems with multiple NG bonds.

 

[ryankshaw]

That inverter almost certainly does dynamic N-G bonding, so you must keep the input and output neutral separate. Otherwise, you will end up with problems with multiple NG bonds.

Perfect. Exactly the kind of info I was looking for. Will use seperate 10/2 with ground wires. Thank you!

You could open up the inverter and find the bypass relays, then look up their rating.

I took this picture of the ac input circuit breaker. It says 40A. Does that mean anything to you? Or do I need to take the cover off the main part of the unit to see something else?

 

[FilterGuy]

It says 40A.

That is a good sign, but is not sufficent to tell us what we need to know.

There are 3 or 4 relays inside that will be used to connect the input to output. I have never looked inside one of you inverters, but my best guess is that they are using 'T' type relays that look something like this:


(The brand will probably be different.... but we are looking for components with that lopsided 'T' shape.)

If you can get the part number for them we can look up the rating.

 

[thebeavesknees]

I am wiring up an MPP PIP 2024 LV-MK All-in-One unit in my Surveyor Legend Travel trailer. I am planning on diverting the AC power in from shore power directly into the all-in-one and then connecting the output of the all-in-one into where the shore power came into the main AC breaker box of the trailer. With the net result that if I am plugged into shore power, the AIO goes into bypass mode and everything in the trailer is powered from shore power, and if I am not plugged in then everything will run off the inverter. (and I will use a 24v to 12v buck converter to power the 12v system)

First question:
Does that seem reasonable? I know I can only put out 2000w (16amps at 120v) while on inverter mode but I also know the trailer technically has a 30 amp plug. Would I be ok to run anything I wanted in the trailer while in bypass mode? Like the Air Conditioner at the same time as the microwave? or is pushing that much through the AIO not ok, even when it is in bypass mode?

Second question:
I have some leftover Romex simpull awg 10 CU 3 CDR with AWG 10 Ground wire. can I use that wire for both the A/C in AND A/C out of the all-in-one? as in, can I wire the black wire to the LINE of the input, the red wire to the LINE of the output, the white wire to Neutral of BOTH the input AND output, and the Ground to both the Ground of the input and the Ground of the output? I feel sheepish even asking that question and I for sure can just get some 10/2 wire and wire it like normal but I figured I'd at least ask so I could learn why that would not be ok.

It seems reasonable enough that I came up with a similar solution for installing my 3048LV-MK into my 30A input trailer. I'm just going to run the whole trailer through the 3048:
30A input -> 3048 -> breaker box. I am aware that I will lose a bit of efficiency since I'm going to keep the OEM converter for the 12V stuff,but it's a simpler, reversible install that way.

I don't know how much load can safely bypass through the inverter, but, nothing in my trailer draws that much unless I run the microwave and AC or the electric fireplace and microwave, all on high, at the same time. Which is all very unlikely in my case, especially since I'll be installing a minisplit next spring.

I'll pass on getting to answer your second question since I'm not sure.

 

[ryankshaw]

It seems reasonable enough that I came up with a similar solution for installing my 3048LV-MK into my 30A input trailer. I'm just going to run the whole trailer through the 3048:
30A input -> 3048 -> breaker box. I am aware that I will lose a bit of efficiency since I'm going to keep the OEM converter for the 12V stuff,but it's a simpler, reversible install that way.

I don't know how much load can safely bypass through the inverter, but, nothing in my trailer draws that much unless I run the microwave and AC or the electric fireplace and microwave, all on high, at the same time. Which is all very unlikely in my case, especially since I'll be installing a minisplit next spring.

I'll pass on getting to answer your second question since I'm not sure.

ya I did basically the same thing. although I also got this 24v to 12v buck converter to run the 12v stuff and I have the breaker for the converter turned off. I did this because I didn't like hearing the noise of the fans when I just needed 12v stuff. by using that 24-to-12 converter I can run all my 12v stuff with the all-in-one turned off.

 

[thebeavesknees]

ya I did basically the same thing. although I also got this 24v to 12v buck converter to run the 12v stuff and I have the breaker for the converter turned off. I did this because I didn't like hearing the noise of the fans when I just needed 12v stuff. by using that 24-to-12 converter I can run all my 12v stuff with the all-in-one turned off.

Most of the time, I don't notice my converter, but, that's a pretty good point! I hadn't thought of that. My AIO is under my bed, but I haven't noticed it yet, and that's before I enclose that part of the pass through with Cement board, which should help even more with noise.