Someone told me to buy these, now what?? Need help with lug connectors

[JeepHammer]

I would be quite surprised if the plating is silver. Most common coating is tin...

SURPRISE!
I buy my rough service terminals specifically because they are silver cadmium plate over solid copper.
It's why my lead/acid battery terminals lasted as long as they did and why I used them.

 

[Santa]

SURPRISE!
I buy my rough service terminals specifically because they are silver cadmium plate over solid copper.
It's why my lead/acid battery terminals lasted as long as they did and why I used them.

Can you supply a vendor to get them for this set up? (in case you didn't see, Will updated the blueprint today.)

 

[JeepHammer]

Updated.

This guy just like to make a lot of little cables...

Can you supply a vendor to get them for this set up? (in case you didn't see, Will updated the blueprint today.)

I'm pretty sure I posted links to heavy lugs & heat shrink in post 55...

 

[Santa]

Updated.

This guy just like to make a lot of little cables...

I'm pretty sure I posted links to heavy lugs & heat shrink in post 55...

Yes, I see the lugs in post 55 are tinned copper not silver. I will ask you something on that post. p.s. how would you do it differently?

 

[JeepHammer]

Yes, I see the lugs in post 55 are tinned copper not silver. I will ask you something on that post. p.s. how would you do it differently?

Silver are hatefully expensive (like $30 each) and I only use them when it's lead/acid batteries that aren't climate controlled.
With the LiFePo4 tinned will work every bit as well.
No sense in wasting money when you don't have the most extreme conditions.

Like I said, if the battery is outside and your cables go through walls or floors, you don't want to pull the cables or try and put new ends on in a battery box, so heavy lugs prevent that.
You don't have acid issues, so silver isn't needed, tinned works fine.

 

[Santa]

Updated.

This guy just like to make a lot of little cables...

I'm pretty sure I posted links to heavy lugs & heat shrink in post 55...

But those are tinned copper not silver

3. At circuit breakers, inverter, charge controller, measure the bolt/stud sizes and order terminals with the correct size 'Eye' holes.
Oversize holes are wasted contact area.

I often buy smaller 'Eye'/bolt hole sizes and drill them out to what's needed so I don't have to stock as many types/sizes.
Drilling is perfectly acceptable, although in hard copper/brass/bronze it can be difficult.
(If you want to see how hard brass can be, try drilling a pre '82 penny!)

As shown in the diagram the OP posted links to, the bare copper terminals are acceptable INSIDE climate controlled conditions.
If the camper/trailer/RV sits unheated for long periods, it's simply isn't that expensive to use plated terminals.

I still recommend you crimp, solder and color code heat shrink.
Leave some extra slack in your cables, 3"-4" or so, this allows you to replace terminals when necessary without scrapping your expensive cables.

The battery will probably have a 3/8" hole.
3/8" brass bolts & nuts are common from any online retailer or big box store bolt & nut rack.

This will be an "It Depends" situation, with VARIABLES...

1. Battery Box.
With a battery box in a trailer, camper, RV,
The battery CABLE will have to come through a wall, floor etc.
That means ARMOR/Protecting for a cables that will be there FOR YEARS,
Will have vibration, sharp edges etc to contend with.

I personally would use a 3/8" hole ('eye') ring terminal,
And I would use a heavy lug so it lived longer in UN-Heated/No Climate controlled space (Battery Box).

I would use something like this in the battery/battery box end of that cable...

https://www.electricalhub.com/generic--tinned-copper-heavy-wall-lug-2

This one is a blind socket, no place for moister or acid to creep into the cable from the battery end,
Heavy plated solid copper lug body so repeated cleaning won't wear the terminal into junk,
And it's tin plate, so as well as crimped, it can easily be soldered as well as crimped.
(Crimp = Mechanical Connection.... Solder = Electrical Connection & Environment Protection)

I would also seal up anything outside the climate control with Glue Lined Heat Shrink, using Red & Black to denote positive & negative connections.

https://www.electricalhub.com/3m/polyolefin-dual-wall-heat-shrink-tubing/eps-300-3-4-48-red

https://www.electricalhub.com/3m/polyolefin-dual-wall-heat-shrink-tubing/eps-300-3-4-48-black

Since the LiFePo4 batteries don't have ACID corrosion problems at the terminals,
BUT,
Those 3/0 or 4/0 cables are stupid expensive, good solid heavy terminals crimped/soldered & heat shrink *Should* live as long as the vehicle...

--------------

2. Batteries inside the vehicle (mostly dry, climate controlled).
I never recommend batteries in a living compartment, I'm only doing this because I don't know specifically what you intend to do...

I would still use brass bolts/nuts at the battery connections.
Even more important with thinner, lighter duty lug terminal ends.

This is what I would use and the 'eye' is a 3/8" hole for the battery connections.
(The rest of the system *Probably* won't have 3/8" bolts, oversize holes are connection surface area lost)

OK, so let me see if I understand you JeepHammer: (By the way, I will be building this at home, and plan to go full-time on the road with it VERY soon - if I can get all the parts. As it is the Renogy controller is on back order until early Dec. after they took my order they decided to tell me...before that I ordered it on Amazon and they cancelled most of my stuff without a reason.)

Any way, I believe I will start with the 2 batteries inside the vehicle where I will be living (later hook up the starter battery when I can get in-person help.) The batteries have 5/16" holes. Do I need to get battery boxes? Do you recommend a container on a hitch outside instead? Why don't you recommend them in living quarters?

Next, I have only done minor soldering. I don't have the tools now. Could I just crimp them until I learn how to properly solder them? Is it just the battery terminals that need to be soldered or all the terminal ends? Do you know of a good video to show me the correct way to solder them? And, can you recommend what supplies and where?

I like the idea to leave 3-4 inches on the cables. Is that only for the battery to inverter cables? thank you for your time and knowledge.

 

[JeepHammer]

OK, so let me see if I understand you JeepHammer: (By the way, I will be building this at home, and plan to go full-time on the road with it VERY soon - if I can get all the parts.

Have you checked the local welding shop?
Some NAPA stores have welding supplies and can show you their heaviest terminals, and the local NAPA stores & welding shop will crimp your terminal ends on if you buy the biggest part of your supplies there.

As it is the Renogy controller is on back order until early Dec. after they took my order they decided to tell me...before that I ordered it on Amazon and they cancelled most of my stuff without a reason.

Amazon... Go figure

Any way, I believe I will start with the 2 batteries inside the vehicle where I will be living (later hook up the starter battery when I can get in-person help.) The batteries have 5/16" holes. Do I need to get battery boxes? Do you recommend a container on a hitch outside instead? Why don't you recommend them in living quarters?

Enormous energy source when batteries are charged.
Two batteries are enough power to do stick welding off of, so they will easily start a fire if anything g shorts the terminals.
For that reason, most certainly have a battery box with a cover.

If you link to the source, simply find 5/16" x 3/0 or 4/0 and use 5/16" brass bolts/nuts.

Next, I have only done minor soldering.
I don't have the tools now.
Could I just crimp them until I learn how to properly solder them?

Yes.
Just use tape on terminals until you feel confident enough to solder and heat shrink.
DO find Red tape for the positive terminals.

Those 'Crack Head' jet torch lighters are cheap and will do the smaller terminals reasonably well.

Is it just the battery terminals that need to be soldered or all the terminal ends?
Do you know of a good video to show me the correct way to solder them?
And, can you recommend what supplies and where?

Non-acid flux, silver bearing solder (no acid core), and a torch.
Heat the LUG (not the cable!)
Tilt the cable with crimped terminal down at about 45° angle so solder doesn't run up the cable,
Use the solder and poke the wire bundle until solder flows.

If you heat the lug and let heat transfer, not aiming the torch up, you won't burn the insulation.
When the solder starts creeping up the wire bundle, stop.
The solder will wick up the cable and make it stiff.

BoobTube should have a bunch of soldering videos, you will just have to pick the heavy cable ones out.

I like the idea to leave 3-4 inches on the cables.
Is that only for the battery cables?

I leave a little slack in all cables, cables are expensive, expensive enough when one gets a little damage I fix it.
A rub on the insulation I slip some heat shrink over the cable and fix the issue.
I have a bad end, I change the end.

Small wires not so much, just too cheap/easy to make a new one most times.

thank you for your time and knowledge.

You learn by doing,
Browse through the online catalogs to see what's available, and think about how it will work in your application.
Search battery cable terminals and see what pops up, browse...

A crack head torch lighter and a roll of solder, practice soldering scrap pieces of wire together so you get the hang of copper soldering.

Silver Bearing Electrical solder isn't that expensive, any clean copper wire will do for a little practice.
Simply don't use the torch to melt the solder, heat the lug or in the case of splices, the wire.
Lift heat and poke with solder... When it flows fill the joint and stop.

A shiny, smooth joint is a good joint.
A lumpy joint was a little too cold.
A dull finish on the joint was too hot.
Stay out of the wind!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Flo-Temp-L...2ad14a95f5:g:t4YAAOSwefldOzxB&redirect=mobile

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BernzOmati...2ad9538ed6:g:ltYAAOSwoGVdzA-l&redirect=mobile

 

[Santa]

Have you checked the local welding shop?
Some NAPA stores have welding supplies and can show you their heaviest terminals, and the local NAPA stores & welding shop will crimp your terminal ends on if you buy the biggest part of your supplies there.



Amazon... Go figure



Enormous energy source when batteries are charged.
Two batteries are enough power to do stick welding off of, so they will easily start a fire if anything g shorts the terminals.
For that reason, most certainly have a battery box with a cover.

If you link to the source, simply find 5/16" x 3/0 or 4/0 and use 5/16" brass bolts/nuts.



Yes.
Just use tape on terminals until you feel confident enough to solder and heat shrink.
DO find Red tape for the positive terminals.

Those 'Crack Head' jet torch lighters are cheap and will do the smaller terminals reasonably well.



Non-acid flux, silver bearing solder (no acid core), and a torch.
Heat the LUG (not the cable!)
Tilt the cable with crimped terminal down at about 45° angle so solder doesn't run up the cable,
Use the solder and poke the wire bundle until solder flows.

If you heat the lug and let heat transfer, not aiming the torch up, you won't burn the insulation.
When the solder starts creeping up the wire bundle, stop.
The solder will wick up the cable and make it stiff.

BoobTube should have a bunch of soldering videos, you will just have to pick the heavy cable ones out.



I leave a little slack in all cables, cables are expensive, expensive enough when one gets a little damage I fix it.
A rub on the insulation I slip some heat shrink over the cable and fix the issue.
I have a bad end, I change the end.

Small wires not so much, just too cheap/easy to make a new one most times.



You learn by doing,
Browse through the online catalogs to see what's available, and think about how it will work in your application.
Search battery cable terminals and see what pops up, browse...

A crack head torch lighter and a roll of solder, practice soldering scrap pieces of wire together so you get the hang of copper soldering.

Silver Bearing Electrical solder isn't that expensive, any clean copper wire will do for a little practice.
Simply don't use the torch to melt the solder, heat the lug or in the case of splices, the wire.
Lift heat and poke with solder... When it flows fill the joint and stop.

A shiny, smooth joint is a good joint.
A lumpy joint was a little too cold.
A dull finish on the joint was too hot.
Stay out of the wind!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Flo-Temp-L...2ad14a95f5:g:t4YAAOSwefldOzxB&redirect=mobile

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BernzOmati...2ad9538ed6:g:ltYAAOSwoGVdzA-l&redirect=mobile

That is good to know about NAPA. I will check them out.

Do you recommend all the terminals be welded or just the heavy duty ones?

I have red duct tape.

I just found some rosin core solder from Walmart I never used. (don't have the iron though.) I will practice on some wires.

What is the difference between the 2 different solder you linked?

You mean to use the crack-head torch on the heat shrink? And a propane torch on the solder right?

 

[JeepHammer]

Crack head torch to solder with. Butane burns very clean so it's good even for little connectors.
Just heat the connector and not the wire, unless you are learning to solder/splice on wire.

No difference in the solder except price and diameter of the solder.
It can come very thin, not much bigger than a fat hair all the way up to bars, just depends on what your are soldering.

Don't confuse silver solder that takes an oxygen torch and silver bearing electrical solder you can melt with a just torch lighter.

 

[Santa]

OK thanks! My butane camp stove wold probably be too much fire? Where did you learn all this JeepHammer?

 

[Santa]

Have you checked the local welding shop?
Some NAPA stores have welding supplies and can show you their heaviest terminals, and the local NAPA stores & welding shop will crimp your terminal ends on if you buy the biggest part of your supplies there.



Amazon... Go figure



Enormous energy source when batteries are charged.
Two batteries are enough power to do stick welding off of, so they will easily start a fire if anything g shorts the terminals.
For that reason, most certainly have a battery box with a cover.

If you link to the source, simply find 5/16" x 3/0 or 4/0 and use 5/16" brass bolts/nuts.



Yes.
Just use tape on terminals until you feel confident enough to solder and heat shrink.
DO find Red tape for the positive terminals.

Those 'Crack Head' jet torch lighters are cheap and will do the smaller terminals reasonably well.



Non-acid flux, silver bearing solder (no acid core), and a torch.
Heat the LUG (not the cable!)
Tilt the cable with crimped terminal down at about 45° angle so solder doesn't run up the cable,
Use the solder and poke the wire bundle until solder flows.

If you heat the lug and let heat transfer, not aiming the torch up, you won't burn the insulation.
When the solder starts creeping up the wire bundle, stop.
The solder will wick up the cable and make it stiff.

BoobTube should have a bunch of soldering videos, you will just have to pick the heavy cable ones out.



I leave a little slack in all cables, cables are expensive, expensive enough when one gets a little damage I fix it.
A rub on the insulation I slip some heat shrink over the cable and fix the issue.
I have a bad end, I change the end.

Small wires not so much, just too cheap/easy to make a new one most times.



You learn by doing,
Browse through the online catalogs to see what's available, and think about how it will work in your application.
Search battery cable terminals and see what pops up, browse...

A crack head torch lighter and a roll of solder, practice soldering scrap pieces of wire together so you get the hang of copper soldering.

Silver Bearing Electrical solder isn't that expensive, any clean copper wire will do for a little practice.
Simply don't use the torch to melt the solder, heat the lug or in the case of splices, the wire.
Lift heat and poke with solder... When it flows fill the joint and stop.

A shiny, smooth joint is a good joint.
A lumpy joint was a little too cold.
A dull finish on the joint was too hot.
Stay out of the wind!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Flo-Temp-L...2ad14a95f5:g:t4YAAOSwefldOzxB&redirect=mobile

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BernzOmati...2ad9538ed6:g:ltYAAOSwoGVdzA-l&redirect=mobile

By the way, many thanks for all your help!!! I appreciate it.

 

[Supervstech]

Crack head torch to solder with. Butane burns very clean so it's good even for little connectors.
Just heat the connector and not the wire, unless you are learning to solder/splice on wire.

No difference in the solder except price and diameter of the solder.
It can come very thin, not much bigger than a fat hair all the way up to bars, just depends on what your are soldering.

Don't confuse silver solder that takes an oxygen torch and silver bearing electrical solder you can melt with a just torch lighter.

I have recently been told by a highly qualified engineer... (not me!) soldering a terminal end is inferior to a solid crimp, and weatherization... a proper hydrolic compression crimp, sealed with watertight shrink is the absolute best. Also, soldering the cable can result in brittle wires that break...
I do not know one way or the other... and the brittle wires, could be from overtinning, or some other error in the soldering process... but it is what he said, and I have had it repeated by inspectors as well...

 

[Santa]

I have recently been told by a highly qualified engineer... (not me!) soldering a terminal end is inferior to a solid crimp, and weatherization... a proper hydrolic compression crimp, sealed with watertight shrink is the absolute best. Also, soldering the cable can result in brittle wires that break...
I do not know one way or the other... and the brittle wires, could be from overtinning, or some other error in the soldering process... but it is what he said, and I have had it repeated by inspectors as well...

Well I heard to not solder before, but I know nothing. Maybe we should start a thread "To solder or not to solder"?? A hydraulic compression crimp - would that be something done at NAPPA parts?

 

[Supervstech]

Well I heard to not solder before, but I know nothing. Maybe we should start a thread "To solder or not to solder"?? A hydrolic compression crimp - would that be something done at NAPPA parts?

I just ordered a crimper on eBay... works great. NAPA sells the hammer style... hard for the beginner to use.
I don’t know if they can crimp for you or not. You would have to ask your store I think.

 

[Santa]

I just ordered a crimper on eBay... works great. NAPA sells the hammer style... hard for the beginner to use.
I don’t know if they can crimp for you or not. You would have to ask your store I think.

Is the one you bought beginner-friendly?

 

[Supervstech]

Ha! Will just released a video about a new crimper he likes...
timing!

 

[Supervstech]

Is the one you bought beginner-friendly?

I think so... a tad tedious, but easy to operate. I will see if I can find a link for you to the ones I use.

 

[Santa]

Ha! Will just released a video about a new crimper he likes...
timing!

yeah I saw it, but I have some larger wires than what it accommodates.

 

[Santa]

I think so... a tad tedious, but easy to operate. I will see if I can find a link for you to the ones I use.

cool, thanks

 

[Santa]

I just ordered a crimper on eBay... works great. NAPA sells the hammer style... hard for the beginner to use.
I don’t know if they can crimp for you or not. You would have to ask your store I think.

I need one that does 1/0 maybe even bigger