diy solar

diy solar

I’m more confused, please help!

Jchance

New Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2020
Messages
93
So I’ve already posted about my recent install of my SCC to complete my small 200 W solar system. And I’m all good with everything, except these other questions;

I also went and purchased a new, 92 Ah AGM house battery to upgrade my 4.5 year old, 66 amp hour, lead acid one, (it was the biggest one I could fit in my step well), just so I have a little extra run time for my new 12 V refrigerator when I make frequent stops for fuel & lunch etc.. I first fully charged it before I installed it.

I’ve been reading how an AGM battery needs a little more higher voltage then My lead acid starting battery to be fully charged. My set up, in my 2018, Ford E450, class C motorhome, is as follows; I have an OEM, 120 amp alternator, Going to my OEM, battery isolation solenoid, wired to my house battery. I am concerned that my alternators regulator will only dish out enough voltage to charge the profile of my lead acid battery, and my AGM will never be fully charged.

So, would the “easiest” way to solve this issue be to just purchase and install a second AGM battery, for my starting engine battery? Will the charging profile now be consistent across-the-board from my alternator? Will this overwork my alternator? And what about my converter/charger, when I’m plugged into shore power?

I also know I can purchase a DC to DC charger, I’ve been looking at the Renogy 20 amp as well as the Victron 20 amp. However, this would require a little reconfiguring of my wiring with some additional parts. I’m looking to just solve this the “easiest” way as possible without harming my alternator, while keeping my new AGM up to snuff.

So am I worried much about nothing? Should I just leave everything alone?
 
You are over thinking it. You'll be fine with it is as it is. ;)
Yea, I know, that’s me, I’m sure your right!

I’m also looking to pick up a extra BIM just to have on hand because I know they fail, and my rigs a 2018 chassis. I see BB has a lithium BIM with some impressive specs that has a built in timer with higher cut in/out voltages then some of the other ones to compensate for a mix of lithium house and lead acid starter batteries . Any experience with this one? Is it over kill for me?

Thanks woody!
 
I'll defer on that as I am not into the lithium batteries. From what I gather once one goes down that hole it's pretty much like buying a boat.... ;) .
 
I'll defer on that as I am not into the lithium batteries. From what I gather once one goes down that hole it's pretty much like buying a boat.... ;) .
I’m not going to lithium, I’m just comparing the voltage charging cycles and parameters to see if it’s applicable to charge an AGM better then with a standard BIS?
 
You are still thinking to much.. trust me..the AGM will handle what it's thrown..

Else you get..

Give me specs of everything,
You didn't include this..
Fill out this spreadsheet


You went with AGM over lead acid.. your RV systems have no clue other than.. finally some juice.

Less pretending to be purist.. realist sees it as just is ;)
 
Ok, I’ve exhausted this pursuit, I’ve had enough people tell me the same thing, that im over thinking everything. I can’t help it, it’s just the way I am when I do things.

Thank you all for your help, putting this to bed, unless an issue arises!
 
Don't stop questioning all good.. knowledge is something that is not instantaneous.. good to question.. but of question for sake of.
 
Except you almost never hear of anybody going back to lead acid from lithium.
You always hear about the happiest day of owning a boat...
You are correct.. never heard back that lost it all with.. you also never hear from those that rent someone's else's boat.. frankly I never hear anything lol
 
Guys. AGM is lead acid .
Simply follow the mfgrs charging specs. Post the specs.
In general, normal automotive flooded lead acid(FLA) charging specs are fine.
AGM do not require higher Volts, but they can accept higher Amps so long as temperature is controlled.
Bubbling a FLA is ok but inciting bubbling by too high volts is bad for AGM.
Forget most everything you 'know' about FLAs.
 
I hate it when someone tells me I’m thinking too much. It’s like saying “just follow the crowd.” End of rant.
 
I hate it when someone tells me I’m thinking too much. It’s like saying “just follow the crowd.” End of rant.
Yea, but sometimes I do overthink things! It’s not a bad trait!

I have a SCC question, while I’m here, over thinking!, my SCC settings do not have AGM as a charging profile, there only SLA, Colloidal-LA, Vented-LA, Lipho and Custom. So which should I choose? I have it on SLA right now.
 
Yea, but sometimes I do overthink things! It’s not a bad trait!

I have a SCC question, while I’m here, over thinking!, my SCC settings do not have AGM as a charging profile, there only SLA, Colloidal-LA, Vented-LA, Lipho and Custom. So which should I choose? I have it on SLA right now.
A better question is "What are the manufacturer's charging specs for the battery?".

I have used AGMs for 12 years. Stop focusing on various charger's specs and post the battery's specs and then myself or others will be able to advise. Just as a guess, you will be using custom. You might be okay with SLA if you can disable equalization.

For the future, choose chargers wisely after choosing battery types.
 
A better question is "What are the manufacturer's charging specs for the battery?".

I have used AGMs for 12 years. Stop focusing on various charger's specs and post the battery's specs and then myself or others will be able to advise. Just as a guess, you will be using custom. You might be okay with SLA if you can disable equalization.

For the future, choose chargers wisely after choosing battery types.

Specifications​



  • 20 amp hour rate: 92
  • Battery electrolyte composition: glass mat
  • Battery purpose: starting/deep cycle
  • BCI group size: 27M
  • MCA at 32 degrees F: 900
  • CCA at 0 degrees F: 580
  • Freight class: 65
  • Polarity: DT
  • Reserve capacity: 175
  • Terminal type: stud and post
  • Volts: 12

This is all I found

It’s a Duracell platinum AGM group 27M sold by Sam’s Club
 

Specifications​



  • 20 amp hour rate: 92
  • Battery electrolyte composition: glass mat
  • Battery purpose: starting/deep cycle
  • BCI group size: 27M
  • MCA at 32 degrees F: 900
  • CCA at 0 degrees F: 580
  • Freight class: 65
  • Polarity: DT
  • Reserve capacity: 175
  • Terminal type: stud and post
  • Volts: 12

This is all I found

It’s a Duracell platinum AGM group 27M sold by Sam’s Club
At Sams Club, the label Duracell usually refers to a battery made by Deka-East/Penn, a company that manufactures in the USA. I had one of those from Bass-Pro labeled XPS. That is a good economy priced battery.

Look at the top of the battery to confirm the mfgr. There may be a model no. Mine showed 8a24m. At the Deka web site I found detailed charging specs as to Charge and float Volts, Amps, and times. A pic would be helpful.
 
My rigs in storage but first chance I get I’ll take a look.

I have a very small solar system just to augment my battery. It consists of 200 W on my roof another hundred watts of panels I carry that I can put in as a portable . My charge controller is a MPPT, 20amp charge controller by HQST I’m not even sure how to customize it without the Bluetooth module and the app, I had the Bluetooth module which I bought separately it worked twice and then quit on me, so I returned it! Now I just have the LED display module, that came with it that has two buttons on it.
 
Back
Top