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Luyuan battery case

Tin plated copper busbars are the obvious choice. I've used an assortment over time.
The 6 packs I am doing now have a different cells (versions), so I am applying a mix. These are all EVE 280AH cells.
2 Packs: V3 dual hole, getting tinned flexible laminated copper busbars.
2 Packs V2 Single welded stud, & 2 Packs V2 with Tapped holes, these are getting mesh copper busbars with tinned ends.
Note that even though slotted bars work pretty well, they aren't optimal, the flexible make the best choice.
A "quirk" with the laminated ones to watch for, they also have heat shrink wrap but you may need to trim it a bit for a good surface contact.

When I was using pure copper (un-tinned) I applied a "very" light coat of noalox on the contact surface... no gobs or anything, just a very thin wipe.
 
I was using pure copper (un-tinned) I applied a "very" light coat of noalox on the contact surface... no gobs or anything, just a very thin wipe.
Ok. I use "Alnox Electrical Joint Compound" at work, which has some grit in it.
I'd think that grit would hold up my flat surface contact area. I use some other connectors that have blue grease in them and I'd like to find a tube of that.
The nickel plated connectors (#4 lugs) are what I've used so far.
I sanded the EVE terminals with 400 grit and buff the bars and lugs (not so much has to remove the coating). The bare aluminum does have an oxidation build up even being new and will probably return quickly, maybe not where a tight connect is made?
Was hoping for a trick of the trade, your Noalox might be something I try and locate.
Thanks.
 
Tin plated copper busbars are the obvious choice. I've used an assortment over time.
The 6 packs I am doing now have a different cells (versions), so I am applying a mix. These are all EVE 280AH cells.
2 Packs: V3 dual hole, getting tinned flexible laminated copper busbars.
2 Packs V2 Single welded stud, & 2 Packs V2 with Tapped holes, these are getting mesh copper busbars with tinned ends.
Note that even though slotted bars work pretty well, they aren't optimal, the flexible make the best choice.
A "quirk" with the laminated ones to watch for, they also have heat shrink wrap but you may need to trim it a bit for a good surface contact.

When I was using pure copper (un-tinned) I applied a "very" light coat of noalox on the contact surface... no gobs or anything, just a very thin wipe.
I've used 'carbon conductive paste' on several connections related to the battery.

As per spec:
This electrically conductive paste reduces contact resistance, repels moisture, inhibits corrosion, and prevents static buildup. It is thixotropic, and can be used as a gap filler to ensure grounded connections or revitalize corroded sockets.


But I still would like to use a tinned connection instead of bare copper. ;)
 
Just wanted to verify those breakers that are included are fully rated for DC 150A/200A? Can someone provide the model included? I would be a bit surprised they can be turned off under load since they are so small? I wondered after seeing the EG4 PowerPro breakers which look similar but after closer inspection it appears the PowerPro battery breakers are disconnecting both the positive and negative whereas the Luyuan battery boxes are just disconnecting the positive?
 
Just wanted to verify those breakers that are included are fully rated for DC 150A/200A? Can someone provide the model included? I would be a bit surprised they can be turned off under load since they are so small? I wondered after seeing the EG4 PowerPro breakers which look similar but after closer inspection it appears the PowerPro battery breakers are disconnecting both the positive and negative whereas the Luyuan battery boxes are just disconnecting the positive?
I wouldn't use those breakers under load unless it's an emergency. When you look at the size difference to a fully rated midnite 250A breaker, that's designed for operation under load without wearing out.
 
I wouldn't use those breakers under load unless it's an emergency. When you look at the size difference to a fully rated midnite 250A breaker, that's designed for operation under load without wearing out.
That's exactly what I was wondering about and just wondered if this is common to all the rack style batteries with breakers? Do they all tell you not to disconnect under load or what?
 
Not sure on instructions but treat them as a courtesy means of disconnection prior to adding/removing from a bus. The Midnite 250A is rated at 50,000 AIC at 125V.
 
The 847 Compound is far better than NoAlox. Answered above by @Martijn.
Below is a Photo of the 200A DC Breaker provided by Luyuan:
1712152239422.jpeg






<---\

The face = 45mm Tall & 26mm wide





























<------/
(breaker body)
Breaker overall Length: 80mm
Total Depth: 65mm
Depth inside case: 50mm
 
I searched quite a bit and really worry about these breakers that don't provide any detailed specs.. I currently have class T fuses on my 3 separate batteries and those breakers really don't seem like they are the equivalent safety wise. Not sure what to think of that.
 
I searched quite a bit and really worry about these breakers that don't provide any detailed specs.. I currently have class T fuses on my 3 separate batteries and those breakers really don't seem like they are the equivalent safety wise. Not sure what to think of that.
Could use one of these close to the battery:


Very large and terminals stick way out in the back.
 
Could use one of these close to the battery:


Very large and terminals stick way out in the back.
That really doesn't seem feasible. Point of these rack style batteries is to be somewhat self-contained and not having to start adding additional external stuff.. A 100A Midnite/Carling breaker would appear to fit if case modified a bit.. just not sure if I am being overly cautious or not.
 
I am installing a class T for each pack anyway, these packs hold so much energy it’s stupid not to. I am getting a couple extra breakers in my next order so I can abuse one.
 
I thought everyone knew these cheap small “breakers” functioned as disconnects only?

I’d love to see some destruction testing to finally put a nail in the coffin of people calling them breakers.
 
I got 24’ of 2ga silicon wire and am going to see if there is a way to get a class T mounted inside the 8s case

I just checked out one of my cases and there should be plenty of room to add a class T inside the case before the breaker. Looks like a piece of angle mounted to the front handle bolts and then mount the fuse holder to that.2C171F43-EB3D-4891-9C9F-61BFDA63BE7F.jpeg
C6B3FC8A-8DF5-4E7F-B847-F0968573EC34.jpeg

This should work to mount it, headed for West Marine for a class T holder later today.

66874387-6A0E-4902-89C3-CDF244667872.jpeg
 
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Too late for my cases but Amy should be able to modify the boxes to incorporate a class T.
 
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