Upgrade RV factory installed system

[Gwdoe]

Last year I purchased new a 2022 Forest river Rockwood ROO 235S.

The camper came factory installed with one 200 W solar panel, the dealer, added a second panel. We believe they are go power but no labels
The solar controller is a Go power GP-PWM – 30 –U L
The inverter is a WFCO 1000 W models WF 5110 RS
2 RV Deep cell lead acid batteries
Has a 12v fridge drawing 14.5 A, will be adding second fridge drawing 9A
Of course this didn’t work out to well, mostly dry camping and we are very conservative of usage. No AC usage, but will install soft start
But need cold food and hot water!

The plan, add one or two more 200 W roof mounted panel, 130 W portable solar kit (for those shady sites, camper has existing plug)
and of course LIthium battery, either 2-100 0r single 230.

My questions, besides if above plan works? Do I need to replace controller and inverter, at this time and expense have no problem doing in the future

Appreciate you help
Greg

 

[corn18]

What does the inverter power now?

 

[Supervstech]

If you camp, or store the camper in cold weather, you need heated batteries.

 

[Aussieguy]

your fridge draw figures are quite large .... the published figures are for maximum power draw when hot

when fridge cools off you'll see it is only using about 5 amps (@12v) measured mine via the battery bluetooth BMS
and it only runs about 50% of the time as long as you don't open the door too much
My 2 x 100ah battery lasted 60hours with just the fridge and the normal parasitic loads

The cycling on/off for the fridge was equivalent to having a 3rd battery
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Running The a/c will require a lot more than 200ah and adding a softstart
look for a more efficient a/c or add a ton of battery capacity + a 3000w or larger inverter.
If I need a/c............ will use generator or find a campground with shorepower

If you going to use inverter you may have to go higher for battery capacity 400ah maybe?
list out what you want to power and plan out your battery capacity and enough panels to replace the charge.

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your solar controller is too small if you intend to add more panels
most you can put on your existing controller is about 400w

I would get on the roof and map out a panel plan...
MY roof , behind the a/c was clutter free and could put 2 x 370w panels (one string)
The front portion can only fit 4 x 200w sized panels in Tetris configuration (second string)


Have already added the 2 x 370w and a 50amp MPPT ,
the rest of the panels can wait IF i actually really need them
traveled / camped for a week in OHIO near Toledo and NEVER turned on the converter
Batteries were re-charged every day max use was about 50% overnight using furnace and fridge

 

[Stircrazy]

Last year I purchased new a 2022 Forest river Rockwood ROO 235S.

The camper came factory installed with one 200 W solar panel, the dealer, added a second panel. We believe they are go power but no labels
The solar controller is a Go power GP-PWM – 30 –U L
The inverter is a WFCO 1000 W models WF 5110 RS
2 RV Deep cell lead acid batteries
Has a 12v fridge drawing 14.5 A, will be adding second fridge drawing 9A
Of course this didn’t work out to well, mostly dry camping and we are very conservative of usage. No AC usage, but will install soft start
But need cold food and hot water!

The plan, add one or two more 200 W roof mounted panel, 130 W portable solar kit (for those shady sites, camper has existing plug)
and of course LIthium battery, either 2-100 0r single 230.

My questions, besides if above plan works? Do I need to replace controller and inverter, at this time and expense have no problem doing in the future

Appreciate you help
Greg

so a few things you should look at doing, if you are adding two more 200 watt , set them up in series with the other two so you have a serries parallel set up and change the controller from the PWM to a MPPT controller, the efficiency gain alone will be worth it. but if your running two fridges I think this will be to small of a setup

for an affordable setup forget about using the AC on solar and batteries, your fridges alone are going to tax your system. if we assume a hot day and a 50% run time that's 282AH in 24 hours between the two of them, so your solar would need to pump out at least that to stay neutral. this is why I am a fan of propane fridges for boondocking, but this is at a 50% duty cycle so it won't always be that much or maybe it could go higher.

 

[MiSh]

You really don't want to run an RV refrigerator on battery power if at all possible. It's not the most economical way to boon-dock. Most RV refrigerators are 3 way, running on either propane, battery or 120/shore power. I would highly recommend running on propane. RV 'fridges sip propane and you will be able to spend more time camping rather than worrying about your battery draining.

 

[grizzzman]

Last year I purchased new a 2022 Forest river Rockwood ROO 235S.

The camper came factory installed with one 200 W solar panel, the dealer, added a second panel. We believe they are go power but no labels
The solar controller is a Go power GP-PWM – 30 –U L

This is the first thing that needs to go. A Quality MPPT would be in order. My suggestion would be a Victron. This will increase solar output on the panels you already have. If you boondock where shading is an issue I would suggest parallel wiring. As you build your solar add controllers as needed. ( redundancy is never a bad idea ) Also figure out a secondary method of charging. As an example I have a 40 amp DC to DC charger on a 20' jumper cable set. Once in a while it gets used. ( as much on family members as mine ).

The inverter is a WFCO 1000 W models WF 5110 RS

If it doesn't have an on/off switch, install one and leave it off at least until you have build the system to handle it.

2 RV Deep cell lead acid batteries
Has a 12v fridge drawing 14.5 A, will be adding second fridge drawing 9A

I agree with the others that the figures are likely way high. I would suggest a smart shunt so you can see the truth on consumption and recharging capabilities.

Of course this didn’t work out to well, mostly dry camping and we are very conservative of usage. No AC usage, but will install soft start
But need cold food and hot water!

Yes very important.

The plan, add one or two more 200 W roof mounted panel, 130 W portable solar kit (for those shady sites, camper has existing plug)
and of course LIthium battery, either 2-100 0r single 230.

My solar started out with 640 watts. It is now 1150 watts and a 150 AH DIY coupled to a 208 AH CG2 bank. I have added 300 AH of LFP to my system. It is not for the solar good days....it is for the solar bad days. Too many in a row.......

My questions, besides if above plan works? Do I need to replace controller and inverter, at this time and expense have no problem doing in the future

my advice is to install as much solar as you can on the roof. Use the largest LFP that will fit. Then after your use, decide on your inverter.

Appreciate you help
Greg

 

[Gwdoe]

What does the inverter power now?

inverter factory installed and have never used, unless it kicks in as needed

 

[Gwdoe]

thanks for all your input.

The Rv manufacturers are adding solar in sales pitch, but as we learned, it’s inadequate to meet needs of any off grid camping.
The main refrigerator inside RV 12V/120V, no propane. I thought that would be issue and it was! Would prefer the propane!

AC not a concern and do not plan on using when boondocking.

Just keeping food cold, hot water and some lights on and wife happy. Beers is in cooler on ice

Will add two 200w panels on roof, MPPT controller, at least 2 lithium 100 batteries orm230
A portable panel as budget allows, and upgrade inverter

 

[Rocketman]

When you add the two panels, mount them so if possible you can add two more in the future. Go 2s2p now then you have options for the future.

And get the Victron Smartshunt or BMV712- that will help you really understand what is happening to your batteries.

 

[JayArr]

Don't assume that Solar is the best way to go. It's installed on the trailer so they can sell you the upgrade, not because it's particularly useful. It's much easier to sell you "additional" panels if there is already one there than it is to talk you into installing solar that doesn't yet exist. It's a sales tactic thing. You may be better off upgrading your batteries and buying a small Honda genny. To get the truth you need to do a cost analysis,

First: Figure out how much power to run both fridges in the real world, fill them up get them cold and then measure the power draw over a 24 hour period on 120VAC. You can run it from the inverter while camping. You may be surprised at how little they draw once they are cold. We always fill our fridge a day before we leave and get it down to temp before we unhook from power at the house. If your fridge isn't full, fill it with water bottles, same with the freezer, you can always dump them later.

Now, with your power requirement figured out calculate how much battery storage to buy to last 24 hours. You likely have two 100AH batteries so you may need to add one or two more.

Next calculate how much solar power you need to fully charge the batteries every day and then compare the price of the solar panels, controllers, wiring, installation and battery charger against the price of a small Honda generator and see if solar really makes sense for this application. You can always also use the solar you have and it will simply reduce the time the genny has to run.

The problem I've found with solar on a trailer is that it doesn't align with my idea of a nice camp site. Unless you like camping in the full sunlight. I prefer a nice shady spot in the trees and the panels don't work so well in there.

Campgrounds I frequent have a much higher percentage of trailers with small gennys than solar, that tells me something. Rules are different in different countries, states and provinces, In BC Canada we're allowed to run our gennys from 9-11AM and from 6-8PM and at exactly 9AM and 6PM you can hear the campground start to buzz as everyone fills up their batteries. My genny is large (4kW) and I fill both my 100AH batteries in about 1 hour and that lasts me 2-3 days, but my fridge is propane.

 

[Stircrazy]

Don't assume that Solar is the best way to go. It's installed on the trailer so they can sell you the upgrade, not because it's particularly useful. It's much easier to sell you "additional" panels if there is already one there than it is to talk you into installing solar that doesn't yet exist. It's a sales tactic thing. You may be better off upgrading your batteries and buying a small Honda genny. To get the truth you need to do a cost analysis,

First: Figure out how much power to run both fridges in the real world, fill them up get them cold and then measure the power draw over a 24 hour period on 120VAC. You can run it from the inverter while camping. You may be surprised at how little they draw once they are cold. We always fill our fridge a day before we leave and get it down to temp before we unhook from power at the house. If your fridge isn't full, fill it with water bottles, same with the freezer, you can always dump them later.

Now, with your power requirement figured out calculate how much battery storage to buy to last 24 hours. You likely have two 100AH batteries so you may need to add one or two more.

Next calculate how much solar power you need to fully charge the batteries every day and then compare the price of the solar panels, controllers, wiring, installation and battery charger against the price of a small Honda generator and see if solar really makes sense for this application. You can always also use the solar you have and it will simply reduce the time the genny has to run.

The problem I've found with solar on a trailer is that it doesn't align with my idea of a nice camp site. Unless you like camping in the full sunlight. I prefer a nice shady spot in the trees and the panels don't work so well in there.

Campgrounds I frequent have a much higher percentage of trailers with small gennys than solar, that tells me something. Rules are different in different countries, states and provinces, In BC Canada we're allowed to run our gennys from 9-11AM and from 6-8PM and at exactly 9AM and 6PM you can hear the campground start to buzz as everyone fills up their batteries. My genny is large (4kW) and I fill both my 100AH batteries in about 1 hour and that lasts me 2-3 days, but my fridge is propane.

while that used to be true even more places in BC are starting to ban gennys or reduce the hours, I have been to some places now that don't allow them at all, but for provincial parks yes that is the hours you have quoted. for the most part I never hear a genny in the provincial parks, last year I did and had to laugh, it was 4 kids in a tent that started up a genny to cook on their hotplate haha. I started to hear then a little more when I moved to the interior as people want to run their AC a bit or its a party weekend, but really I can count on one hand in the last 20 years how many I have heard camping in BC, Jasper and Banff. I have solar on both my 5th wheel and camper and they are totally self sufficient power wise (Im not a big 120V user, in the 5th I'll let the kids watch a movie every night, run the kurieg in the morning and after supper, and maybe a couple min of microwave time) and I have about 3 days back up. in the camper I don't have 120V right now and I have about a 10 day reserve with the new battery. both systems will have the over night usage replaced by noon and that's running the furnace in about -5C weather. all I need is about 3 hours of sun and that's not hard as there are no trees above you in 99% of the parks so you get the mid day.

as for a genny being cheaper, I built the solar system on the camper for 500.00 cdn a good quality quiet genny is 1200 plus and then you become "one of those guys" haha

 

[Gwdoe]

Don't assume that Solar is the best way to go. It's installed on the trailer so they can sell you the upgrade, not because it's particularly useful. It's much easier to sell you "additional" panels if there is already one there than it is to talk you into installing solar that doesn't yet exist. It's a sales tactic thing. You may be better off upgrading your batteries and buying a small Honda genny. To get the truth you need to do a cost analysis,

First: Figure out how much power to run both fridges in the real world, fill them up get them cold and then measure the power draw over a 24 hour period on 120VAC. You can run it from the inverter while camping. You may be surprised at how little they draw once they are cold. We always fill our fridge a day before we leave and get it down to temp before we unhook from power at the house. If your fridge isn't full, fill it with water bottles, same with the freezer, you can always dump them later.

Now, with your power requirement figured out calculate how much battery storage to buy to last 24 hours. You likely have two 100AH batteries so you may need to add one or two more.

Next calculate how much solar power you need to fully charge the batteries every day and then compare the price of the solar panels, controllers, wiring, installation and battery charger against the price of a small Honda generator and see if solar really makes sense for this application. You can always also use the solar you have and it will simply reduce the time the genny has to run.

The problem I've found with solar on a trailer is that it doesn't align with my idea of a nice camp site. Unless you like camping in the full sunlight. I prefer a nice shady spot in the trees and the panels don't work so well in there.

Campgrounds I frequent have a much higher percentage of trailers with small gennys than solar, that tells me something. Rules are different in different countries, states and provinces, In BC Canada we're allowed to run our gennys from 9-11AM and from 6-8PM and at exactly 9AM and 6PM you can hear the campground start to buzz as everyone fills up their batteries. My genny is large (4kW) and I fill both my 100AH batteries in about 1 hour and that lasts me 2-3 days, but my fridge is propane.

Thanks,
I do have a generator for a back up, but don’t want to be “that neighbor” in campground.
RV manufactures should stick with propane Refrigerators
I could look into replacing 12V inside fridge, with propane, but will stilll work on up grading solar

 

[Doggydogworld]

Just keeping food cold, hot water and some lights on and wife happy.

Your water heater will run on propane, right? Might take a bit longer to recover, but I'd shut off electricity to it when boondocking
With Arctic ice packs you can unplug the fridge overnight and plug it back in when sunrise hits the panels

 

[Stircrazy]

Thanks,

RV manufactures should stick with propane Refrigerators
I could look into replacing 12V inside fridge, with propane, but will stilll work on up grading solar

what is your typical length you go camping for? what I did was insure I could cover that with just battery power, then added enough solar to replace my overnight usage by early afternoon. that way I can still enjoy a normal trip if something breaks down with the solar.

for me I typically go 5 to 8 days in the camper if I am by myself, I have no 120power in it right now so I use about 31ah a night if I am running the furnace. I am just putting in a 304AH Battery and my solar on a normal day will have it charged up by 11am. if I am in a semi shaded spot that might be early afternoon.

 

[Gwdoe]

Further questions; 2022 Rockwood Roo 235S Hybrid
I’ve added 2 200W panels to existing 2 200W panel, that were factory and dealer installed. In Parallel/ series
Have room for 2 more later, if needed
Will be upgrading too appropriate MPPT Controller, too many choices.
Have a 230Ah Li Time battery
Will add second if needed and can afford
The inverter is a WFCO 1000 W models WF 5110 RS
Will upgrade as needed and can afford

I understand it is best to install MPPT Controller as close to battery as possible.

The Factory system has solar panel wires (10 gauge) entering camper in rear to controller then 8 gauge wire running to front battery and inverter

My question is: it be OK to install controller in same spot and is wiring safe and sufficient. I understand not as efficient but really don’t want to rewire system.

have schematics for rv, but have to locate

Enjoy forum and appreciate help

 

[grizzzman]

Further questions; 2022 Rockwood Roo 235S Hybrid
I’ve added 2 200W panels to existing 2 200W panel, that were factory and dealer installed. In Parallel/ series
Have room for 2 more later, if needed
Will be upgrading too appropriate MPPT Controller, too many choices.
Have a 230Ah Li Time battery
Will add second if needed and can afford
The inverter is a WFCO 1000 W models WF 5110 RS
Will upgrade as needed and can afford

I understand it is best to install MPPT Controller as close to battery as possible.

The Factory system has solar panel wires (10 gauge) entering camper in rear to controller then 8 gauge wire running to front battery and inverter

My question is: it be OK to install controller in same spot and is wiring safe and sufficient. I understand not as efficient but really don’t want to rewire system.

have schematics for rv, but have to locate

Enjoy forum and appreciate help

OK Parallel panel wiring, trailer length 23' approx. so 28ish feet of 8 AWG cable. Say MPPT output of 14 volts say 25 amps through your 28' of 8 awg is a voltage drop of 7.80 % at the batteries is a voltage loss of 1.09 volts..... Let that soak in. In a small system it is important to be efficient

 

[FLD]

I'm going to politely disagree with Aussie guy about needing to replace the GoPower controller, although I'd agree that it's a good idea.
The GoPower is a 30-amp pwm controller so it'll handle three 200-watt flat mounted panels connected in parallel. We ran ours that way for two years. Of course, the factory doesn't place the controller near the batteries so there's a reason to swap it out for an mppt scc.
I installed a 60-amp mppt scc when I added a fourth panel. The scc is slightly over paneled 760 watts vs recommended max of 720 watts) but the panels are flat on the roof.
I was reluctant to post this because Aussie guy gives good advice and in my opinion he's way smarter than me about most of the stuff he comments on.
FWIW, I'm in the "you can't ever have too much battery capacity" club. Our camper has an 800 amp hour lifepo4 battery bank and I can't help myself, I want more.
That said, we need to have the ability to run the rooftop air conditioning (health issues) if we're off grid and the air temps are elevated at night. Currently we can do that for 8+hours at a 50% cycle time. I added a 3000/9000 inverter-charger capable of starting and running the air, as well as helping the solar system recharge the batteries with an inverter-generator if necessary.
Sorry I got so long winded.
FYI, on our Forest River Mini Lite 2205S, 10awg copper wire ran from the panels to the controller and 8awg copper wire from ran the controller to the battery bank.

 

[Gwdoe]

Thinking about efficiency in system, I can shorten the run by installing a new port, on roof, in the front of camper, above area where batteries, inverter and controller will be. just have to figure out snaking wires.

 

[FLD]

Thinking about efficiency in system, I can shorten the run by installing a new port, on roof, in the front of camper, above area where batteries, inverter and controller will be. just have to figure out snaking wires.

Another way some folks are doing it is to route the PV wires down the awning arm, if you have an awning. Just a thought.