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Current start is 14-15kw of panels and ~30kwh of battery, so 1:2 ratio, but want to expand to 90kwh of battery with 30kwh held in reserve (~1 day of usage in winter). Have an electric dryer as well, if it becomes a problem I'm going to replace it with a heat pump unit (GE makes a large one if...

CL900 gets you inrush (still useful IMO and worth the minor bump in cost).

Honestly this is where paying a structural engineer is worthwhile. That the rafters are old growth and actually 2x4 is a good sign, you may need to add some bracing here and there but nothing major (I am NOT a structural engineer). If you are only throwing up 550lb (panels, wire and mounting...

Ya, you should be OK with a good hybrid AIO (pick your battle lines). I would however suggest installing a soft start as well, that'll help no mater who you choose.

For code, 9540 listed with the 15k, I'd generally say pytes or homegrid both likely give the best bang per buck right now.

Spacing was mentioned in the proposed indiana 2022 residential code update proposals, actually happy with this.

I think it's AC generated - AC consumed = excess AC excess AC - inverter battery charging = surplus AC to grid (if grid down, sol-ark will tell panels to curtail performance)

keep in mind the powerpro can only send 200A max continuous, which is 9600W AC or so. That would be your grid down no solar max.

More often actually, most UPS's will self test on a certain cadence. Though that isn't a full discharge cycle I think. For me UPS batteries last about 5 years at the long end. I do have 6-10 outages a year though (waiting on this solar install...).

Ya, unless getting 2+ powerpro batteries you are a little restricted, just a thing to keep in mind during the build.

The breaker panel sounds interesting, having to piece together a bunch of individual pieces while not a big deal does take up more space and is a bit more to organize.

If looking at battery backup only, I'd look at the new ecoflow system if you didn't want to diy something else. There's something to be said for turn key solutions.

klein cl900 is what I'd do, for inrush (and use). a pre-charge resistor is a good idea too, maybe a good label maker :D

Not sure I should post a link to this here or another forum. This helps show why a resistor is necessary when connecting a battery to a load (like capacitors in most inverters). What a resistor gives you is a way to slow down the initial load (electron inrush if you will), allowing you to stay...

He's a wizard

would be interesting to see if some of the higher end phillips ultra definition bulbs have the same problem.

Indiana has not yet put it in place but it is recommended to amend to put in place following the UL9540 limits and not the IRC limits for batteries in room / house, I know I saw that proposal but can't find it now. Also, from your link. It does limit it to 20kwh per stack though.

Option 1 is the only one that he can do unless he runs something thicker than 10ga wire since the runs are so long. But this is also what I'd do.

Until there is something more standardized I think hooking a chargeverter up to a car outlet and backfeeding through that will be the way to go. It can be nice to have a secondary use for all those kwh, but at least for my use case, a chargeverter is probably the way to go.

https://inspectapedia.com/electric/Electrical-Panel-Clearance-Distances.php

That's true forgot about the 'delay' time for fuses. Really it's about protecting all aspects from that initial chaotic bull rush of current.

standard form factor would have me on this so quick...

this would be much bigger news if true

My understanding is that powerpro and lifepower have different configurations (15s for powerpro and 16s for lifepower). This results in different voltage profiles for charge / discharge. But I'm just a pleb, take that with a large grain of salt.

12kw is the max it can push or pull from battery, which is 250A, it can do 500A for ten seconds or 625 for 0.1 seconds. I've considered running parallel 0/4 cables as well and upsizing the fuse, not certain there (and a fuse isn't strictly necessary just advised IMO). I'm not decided on...

To give an idea of peak usage, my peak usage is 11kw (measured on a 30 second interval). Almost never go above 5kw though (that's the AC). electric dryer electric oven ~2.5-3 ton AC ~300W of server load (small rack) other general loads In the winter my average is ~1kw, summer is ~2-2.5kw

Hi, also in Indiana, possibly the worst state in the US for solar ROI.

I don't think you can measure volts or hertz via the clamp on any clamp meter (clamps only measure amps, it's in the name :P)

90kwh and 18kw is what I'm shooting for actually, will start with the solar, use the tax break to buy 30-60kwh of battery, then the tax break from that to get the last 30kwh of battery.

Being able to take it out is good for maintenance, I don't think it's a nec or code thing.