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If I can find this 12v cable for cigarette lighter I can charge the jump starter from my 12v side of the system. Guess what? I found the USB C wire that they use to charge this thing with. Sorry for the bother. I just plugged it into a laptop and it should be okay. Thanks!

I bought this jump starter from Amazon but it did not come with a charging adapter and now that I need it, its dead. http://tinyurl.com/mtwpjdbp

24v

Is there a device I can buy that would utilize the power in my battery bank via inverter to jump start my car battery?

I use my Motorola android phone to monitor by bluetooth and this USB device to monitor with my laptop: https://overkillsolar.com/product/usb-module-for-bms/. Seems to work okay.

In the screenshot above the batteries show zero amp hours and discharging. Today the batteries show 97% and 98% amp hours at about 27.95v and discharging. I turned off solar panel input at a breaker to the solar charge controller and the discharging stopped. Wonder if the BMS is discharging...

Those are your words, not mine. Try the easy "some tangent" first and before disconnecting the battery and "dealing with it," is all I'm saying. Here is what I'm talking about. The attachments are from the USB modules, one for each 8s BMS, and this software shows 71% battery capacity. Not...

Sounds like a big job. Wonder if the bluetooth connected software is accurate. I will try the USB connected module and its software and see if there is any change and go from there. This USB device: https://overkillsolar.com/product/usb-module-for-bms/.

I have two 8s 100A Overkill BMS's on (16) 3.2v 100aH LiFePO4 cells in a 24v battery banks. The inverter is off, there is no load on the batteries, the remote monitoring display MT50 shows the batteries charging (see attached). The MT50 shows a charged battery. The software shows zero amp...

I've got some spare panels 250W x 4 and 100W x 4, a couple of Battleborn LiFePO4 100aH batteries and five 3.2v 280aH LiFePO4 cells (in various conditions, some swelled), plus lots of wire, breakers, etc. What is the best way to utilize the extra solar panels? Or, what would make an interesting...

Summer of 2023, hottest year ever recorded in history. I'm running a Sennville LETO 9,000 BTU A/C and Heater off of 560Ah battery and three solar panels mounted on ladder racks on my Ford E-250 van. The mini-split is mounted on the left rear bumper (facing the rear). Batteries appear to stay...

Mostly, nonexistent but I can follow directions.

Do you recommend the ESP32 DEVKIT DOIT board? Not looking for another project or rabbit hole, but a kit and straight-forward solution to monitoring devices would be interesting. The Home Assistant sounds interesting.

And, hook up to Teamviewer or RemotePC and work the controls from your remote computer that's connected to the USB device. That should work.

Wonder if someone has put a DIY "kit" together that controls access to the BMS's? I have great bluetooth access via the Overkill BMS's when I'm next to the battery with my Android phone, just not when I'm in outside of bluetooth range.

I have (2) Overkill 100A 24v BMS's with Bluetooth and it works great when I'm close to the battery. How can I monitor the cells from my PC desktop or laptop? Is there an off-the-shelf solution available?

I'm making a 24v battery.

(16) EVE 2.3v 280Ah cells = how many amp hours? Thanks.

I ordered Leviton 8300-SGW 20 Amp, 125 Volt, Extra Heavy Duty Hospital Grade, Duplex Receptacle, Tamper Resistant, Straight Blade, Self Grounding 20 amp receptacle https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LEYYKW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 And this Leviton 1221-2W 20-Amp...

The mini-split specifications, attached, for a Senville Mini Split Air Conditioner Heat Pump, 9000 BTU 110/120V, Inverter (SENL-09CD/X) mention: Minimum Circuit Ampacity as 16 amps. Not sure how to read that; maybe the switch and receptacle should be 20 amps.

This 20 Amp Commercial Grade Combo Single Pole Switch and Receptacle, Leviton 5335, is the closest I have found so far. The mini-split is 110/120 v only.

I want to know how to connect the switch to break ac power to the outlet; is 15 Amps what I should use? There are YouTube demonstrations that are helpful but I thought there might be a sticky or guide for taking the ac and powering my mini-split.

Would you go with 15 Amp or 20 Amp receptacles? Seems like the 20 Amp would hold up better. If I could have four receptacles I would. I think Tay Mac makes a plastic enclosure but I can't locate it.

Something like this without the GFCI switch which disconnects electricity in my system.

Couple of questions for a mobile application; a van. Is there a guide for it? Do I need a plastic box for the outlet and switch? The stores sell steel boxes and covers. Should it be 15 Amps or something else? Stranded copper wire or solid?

I see what you mean. I believe Centigrade is enabled by default but the numbers in the file are a mystery.

I haven't set the parameters for the BMS's but have an Overkill file (FIG converted to .pdf) with recommended settings for 8s standard LiFePO4, attached. Does this list of setting look kosher for a 24v battery?

I've got the BMS's connected. They are two 8S 100A 24v Overkill BMS's connected to two banks of (8) EVE 3.2v 280Ah LiFePO4 cells wired in 24v. The MT-50 and my shunt are reading in the 27v-29v range; the BMS's each read in the same range. Shouldn't the voltage for both banks be twice as high...

I've disconnected the solar panels and turned the inverter off. I could leave the inverter on which would draw the battery down to 27.0v or 28.0v but the Samlex EVO 2224 needs around 20v to even start up. So, the charge is at 29.0v at this time. Thanks for the help.

I have a 24v battery connected to solar panels. I have two BMS's connected to the two 8S banks. I can't get the BMS's to connect to bluetooth yet to set the maximum charge. Until I can figure that out what is the maximum charge I can let the battery reach?

What are the LiFePO4 battery terminals made of? The 3/8" stainless steel bolts hold the 1/0 awg lug down onto a copper bus bar. How much resistance is present? The only equivalent copper bolts were for sale on E-Bay. The big box stores have copper split bolts.

What is the best way to connect the battery positive and battery negative terminals (BC0 and BC8) on the cells to the BMS and the + bus bar? I want to bend the copper bus bars to 90 degrees, run a 3/8" stainless bolt through the wooden compression wall for the bus bars for battery positive and...

I think you're right and 1/0 awg from the old build would be enough. Thank you for the chart.

My inverter is the Samlex EVO 2224. Input: 24 VDC Output: 120 VAC Watts: 2200 Watts Surge: 6600 Watts Outlets: Hardwired Fuse: External

I'm going with 3/0 awg after talking to Troy at Overkill. Now, to cut 3/0 awg wire and try to get 10' pos and neg wires to stretch to bus bars and inverter. Why is wire so expensive? The up side of using solar panels to power a mini split is the recent heat wave and the fragile power grid.