diy solar

diy solar

Looking for a decent inverter

Wow Impressive. That inverter powers your Air Conditioner? What Air Conditioner model are you running from that inverter? (Curious)
I don't remember the brand name. Its a 5000 btu air condition and pulls 550 watts continuous when the compressor is running and around 50 watts for just the fan I think. I'll watch it today when its running to see for sure. The 1000 watt inverter has no problem running it.
 
I'm watching the a/c right now and it shows 493 watts running the compressor.
 
I'm watching the a/c right now and it shows 493 watts running the compressor.
Nice. Still amazes me the loads one can run on smaller capable, planned out equipment. My original Epever 4215BN, and my Growatt AIO's all impress me. Going "Big" and "Large" is cool, but also small , light inexpensive is cool as well.
 
I'm running dual 4215bn's and that gowise inverter. The dc stuff normally runs my pi computers, outside cameras and stuff. I added the small inverter to it for the heck of it a while back and then I got a wild hare and put the window a/c on it since I had so much excess power on the dc stuff.

My sungold tp6048 runs the house stuff.
 
Assuming I go with a 1000W or 1200W inverter, and get the 2/0 AWG Harbor Freight cables:
Am I good with a breaker like this one:
Should I go 200A or 250A for such wires?

Or smaller cables (1/0 AWG) would be plenty enough?
Then should it be a 150A or 200A breaker?

Thanks
 
Assuming I go with a 1000W or 1200W inverter, and get the 2/0 AWG Harbor Freight cables:
Am I good with a breaker like this one:
Should I go 200A or 250A for such wires?

Or smaller cables (1/0 AWG) would be plenty enough?
Then should it be a 150A or 200A breaker?

Thanks
I'd use windynation or temco cables over the harbor freight, I doubt the HF are made in the USA.

I would not use that circuit breaker at all. It is designed for car audio...
 
I'd use windynation or temco cables over the harbor freight, I doubt the HF are made in the USA.

I would not use that circuit breaker at all. It is designed for car audio...
Thanks for the Windynation link
So better go with something like that for the fuse:
 
I went with the fuse French_guy posted the link to for my mower since space is limited but for home stuff I would go with this :

This is the 160amp model


they have a 200amp listed there too.

The reason I will be buying some of these in the future is they have LUGS not the stupid screws that most breakers have. So no worrying about the cables falling out over time. Multi strand wire and screw clamp breakers are not the easiest things to live with. I prefer crimping ends on cables with my hydraulic crimper and bolting them to stuff.
 
Thanks for the Windynation link
No problem, you're welcome.
I suppose that would work for a 12v application. I'd feel better with a MRBF fuse.
If you have any plans to upgrade to 48v down the road just buy the class T now...

Ps - I cleaned up your fuse link for you, anything after the ASIN is just gibberish you don't need.
 

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Ok for the MRBF fuse...how many amps should I get for a 2/0 AWG ?
A 1200W inverter will steady-draw 100A at full dance; regardless of cable size as long as it’s sufficient I would and have used a 125A ClassT or fast-blowing audio fuse. WindyNation sells these as well with a spare. I never blew 125A fuse on the 1200W Giandel.
 
A 1200W inverter will steady-draw 100A at full dance; regardless of cable size as long as it’s sufficient I would and have used a 125A ClassT or fast-blowing audio fuse. WindyNation sells these as well with a spare. I never blew 125A fuse on the 1200W Giandel.
So it means 1/0 AWG + 125A would be.................just fine?
 
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