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My Solar Shed Construction Starts in a Week

Google "geothermal cooling" (or heating). I think that's what he means.
 
Google "geothermal cooling" (or heating). I think that's what he means.

I knew what he meant, but he appears to think it's a viable alternative to a $149 AC unit, when in reality it costs a LOT more and will use the nearly the same amount of energy in the process. Plus you destroy your yard for a while, have to rent equipment, etc etc.
 
So cool! I would reconsider the visquine. Google it, based on your climate. Might be too late, but it's not a big deal either way. Very happy for this thread! ??
 
Are you putting insulation in the shed? Some decent batts on the underside of the roof will certainly help keep the temp down when the sun is beating down.
I was thinking rock wool insulation since it prevents fire from spreading. I don't know how useful it is to contain a fire in a shed that is going to burn anyway, but I'm just so used to installing rock wool everywhere that I use it everywhere anyway.
 
Wouldn't a lean-to roof be better for solar?

lean-to-shed-construction-diagram.png
I like the idea of a freestanding shed so it doesn't burn the house down. I agree with Will there. In my case, I would build it out of concrete, because we have other things that could catch fire around here, and I have been building concrete forms for years for work. But what I agree with you about is having the sloping roof toward where the solar panels go, all toward sun. However, I don't know what regulatory restrictions are there for solar panels mounted that way, i.e., covering the whole shed's roof. I play with the idea of building piers to move the four corners of a large panel of panels up and down to orient them at the sun all day, so maybe that would be different?

Also, brainstorming, if you ever wanted to convert a wooden shed to concrete, you could put in the foundation ditch, rebar, concrete foundation and ground slab and a range of 0 to 2 adjoining walls, slide the wooden shed onto the pad, and finish surrounding it. Would need treated plywood or sheet metal to surround the wooden shed since untreated wood doesn't like concrete contact. Rebar, temporary form side, 4x4 braces inside, and poured-in-place 1' per half hour rises of concrete properly consolidated (vibrator), or cinderblocks (and concrete and rebar and vibrator) would both be options. Could upgrade an existing deteriorating shed into something much more fire resistant. Of course, you'd have to shore up the interior structures at some point so they don't fall down on old rotting wood, but with the fresh strong walls, you'd have all sorts of options.

I think your wood shed will last a while, though, very likely until you are an age when doing physical labor seems laborious.
 
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Factor in 8 feet high and you have about 500 cubic feet. A 5000 BTU air conditioner will cool that to where you can keep vegetables in there and they won't spoil. That is about 1/3 the size of an average living room, and a 5000 BTU cools a living room well. My little trailer has AC in it as a STANDARD included item! It's 121 cubic feet and it has a 5000 BTU AC in it. As I am out there working on the trailer I have never had the Ac above 1 or 2!

He's fine for cooling. As smart as this kid is, he knows what he's doing.
I skimmed your post and thought you were recommending turning it into a refrigerator. I realize now that's not what you said. But here's how I replied when I still thought that, and it has some long references:

According to this one hour presentation at
(also at non-Google server http://media3.ev-tv.me/news040513-1280.mov at 34:21), LiFePO4's like to be quite warm. I think after watching that I realized that the almost six thousand posts at https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/sudden-loss-of-range-with-2019-16-x-software.154976/ and Bjorn Nyland (his YouTube channels are great), there is a serious degradation problem with charging cold Lithium Ion batteries. To me, all of this together says that whatever Lithium battery type you use, you most definitely don't want them cold. You also do not want them very hot. You only want them very warm. It is up to you to pour through those data files I listed to figure out what the "optimum" temperature is as well as the cutoff ranges to turn on the heaters and air conditioners, or just search for it online someplace.

It would definitely be bad to have most Lithium Ion battery chemistries at refrigerator temperatures. While that is very dependent on the exact battery chemistry, that seems to be true with almost all the major ones available for storage projects that I am aware of so far.
 
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No way!! I was told I need it for this environment. Dang it. What do you prefer instead?

I dont use it at all, but this is a short read that explains it well :
 
As a bit of colour, a lot of older of the houses here ( tropical east coast of australia ) have no insulation of any kind in the walls. Outside wall is a sheet of fibro (asbestos based sheeting), inside wall is a sheet of burnie board, a brown composite fibre board that warps at the slightest hint of water, a 10cm unsealed void between the two.

It's not at all unusual to see outside walls sweating during humid nights if the aircon is belting away inside. Despite that the burnie board doesn't warp and having seen inside the walls of enough renovations there isn't any water damage to speak of, at least not from the aircon condensing water out of the air. Looks like letting things dry out is a better approach?
 
As a bit of colour, a lot of older of the houses here ( tropical east coast of australia ) have no insulation of any kind in the walls. Outside wall is a sheet of fibro (asbestos based sheeting), inside wall is a sheet of burnie board, a brown composite fibre board that warps at the slightest hint of water, a 10cm unsealed void between the two.

It's not at all unusual to see outside walls sweating during humid nights if the aircon is belting away inside. Despite that the burnie board doesn't warp and having seen inside the walls of enough renovations there isn't any water damage to speak of, at least not from the aircon condensing water out of the air. Looks like letting things dry out is a better approach?

Jeez what is humidity level there?
 
I'd insulate it and throw up 1/2" drywall, call it a day. If condensation/sweating is really the concern, use green board like bathrooms and kitchens.

Maybe a whirlybird and soffits.
 
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Insulating the shed and adding inverters
Batteries have cold temp protection and heater pad system. Need to add converters and outlets next. And ocpd and array. Lots of work to do.View attachment 869
Will very cool set-up. I am designing something very similar currently using the LV5048 as well, Post here: http://www.diysolarforum.com/index....00ah-lithium-iron-phosphate-battery-pack.509/ but I have a lot of indecision regarding my battery bank and to parallel first or series first, etc. What size LIFEP04 cells are those? And what is that BMS? I was thinking of using a DALY 16s 200AMP but I would love to know what yours is there. I am really excited to see what you end up doing with this project. Some insight on split phase would be useful as well. Keep up the great work!
 
I dont use it at all, but this is a short read that explains it well :

So according to that, the problem is when there is warm humid air outside, and the inside temp is air-conditioned below the dew point. Is it ever humid in Las Vegas?
 
It rarely, and I mean RARELY gets humid in Las Vegas.

Yeah, that was my thought. It has certainly felt dry every time I have visited. But I'm acclimated to coastal San Diego.

I know that Las Vegas can get quite cold (again, by my San Diego standards) in the winter, and that's where a good barrier might be important, but more to keep the cold dry air from getting in than to block moisture.

Around here, houses typically only have a moisture barrier on the outside, but I'm not sure what materials are typically used.
 
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