LV5048, 4 renogy 300w panels and 8 Battleborn batteries...in de box!

[erik.calco]

My system leaves a lot for expansion. Your system likely uses less idle power and is far less expensive. You could use used Tesla batteries/with BMS for a far far less costly system. I was too worried about burning my house down. Agreed that my gasoline car is more likely to cause a fire than the Tesla battery/BMS.

My system has a lot of room for expansion due to ability to run lv2424 in parallel, and ability to feed more into that transfer switch... up to 4 x lv2424. I may be locked into 24v, though, with lv2424, whereas you are set with 48v.

I really love the flexibility of our transfer switches, making that side a once and done deal. I'll hook up all 10 circuits right away (shorting L1 and L2). Just can't obviously flip them all on gen at the same time. When I add a 2nd lv2424, one will feed each L. With 4, you'd have 2x lv2424 on each L.

I considered the LV5048. It is the better option if you don't mind the bigger up-front cost. The LV2424 can handle up to 2 kWh PV, though. I need to discover what kind of return I can get on that before I consider expanding, being in Ohio.

It sounded from what others said in another thread that I'm not paying a lot for grid, either, at 0.13/kwh. Combined with NE location payback is a challenge. Scaling depends on how practical payback is, and that is going to all come down to how much I can get in a year from the PV.

I do consider UPS a plus; so if I can break even in 7 years with the batteries, that would be one heck of an achievement. But UPS isn't just how much you can store in your batteries. The solar panels are UPS in a prolonged grid downtime as we'll be able to produce at least some energy on most days.

 

[RandyP]

What solar panels are you using ? And their specs ?

 

[erik.calco]

And regarding TSLA, I decided that LiFePO4 is worth the investment in both safety and cycle life. I did a lot of due diligence and haven't had buyer's remorse on the batteries, so I'm OK with that.

However, for expansion, you do not have to put everything in one battery bank. If I add inverters I can consider a new battery bank that could take advantage of the battery deal available then. A new battery bank would also allow me to consider a different brand inverter. Both technologies are evolving fast.

The only real complication is if you need 180 degree phase angle (240V), or you need to combine two inverters on one live. Both cases require the inverter managing the phases to be sure they are in sync. In those scenarios... at least today.... you cannot mix inverter brands.

 

[erik.calco]

What solar panels are you using ? And their specs ?

Is that for OP (ebdesroches) or me?

 

[RandyP]

Why not both of you.

 

[erik.calco]

Why not both of you.

I just got the batteries and the inverter arrives this week, but haven't ordered the REC SOLAR TWINPEAK2 320 WATT MONO SOLAR PANELS yet. These panels are my top pick currently. I can run a 3S2P configuration for 1920w (just under the 2kw lv2424 limit) and be under the 145 Voc limit of the inverter with 3*40+20 = 140V and the Vmp limit of 115V with 3x33.3=100V. 2P is 19 amps.

Despite being within the limits, I'm a little nervous being close on Voc, so might drop down to the 305w for a 1.8kw array, which have a better price/watt. They are the same size, though, so the resulting efficiency is lower.

@Will Prowse @MPP Solar USA - Ian Roux can you please review this array configuration for LV2424? Is there an issue with the amps being only 19?

NOTE: Without the PV, the inverter and batteries are still a fully functional UPS system. The inverter can charge the batteries from grid. Obviously, no payback w/o PV. But, it's a reason to get that all running before I order the PV panels.

 

[ebdesroches]

Is the L bracket loose or bolted/welded to the 2" pipe so that rotating the pipe changes panel tilt?

The L bracket is a piece of angle iron that is welded to the flat stock that is bolted to the array. The U bolts connected the angle iron to the galvanized pipe.

 

[erik.calco]

I understand the L to the panel connection. Very innovative, btw. I like that part, because you are giving it a lot of extra strength countering wind with the flat stock. Yours is the first time I've seen that done.

I don't see U bolts here, so was asking if there was anything more on the other side of the 2" pipe:



I could imagine them there, though. It makes sense.

I'm really loving the innovation in your structure, and am likely to adopt a good part of it.

 

[ebdesroches]

My system has a lot of room for expansion due to ability to run lv2424 in parallel, and ability to feed more into that transfer switch... up to 4 x lv2424. I may be locked into 24v, though, with lv2424, whereas you are set with 48v.

I really love the flexibility of our transfer switches, making that side a once and done deal. I'll hook up all 10 circuits right away (shorting L1 and L2). Just can't obviously flip them all on gen at the same time. When I add a 2nd lv2424, one will feed each L. With 4, you'd have 2x lv2424 on each L.

I considered the LV5048. It is the better option if you don't mind the bigger up-front cost. The LV2424 can handle up to 2 kWh PV, though. I need to discover what kind of return I can get on that before I consider expanding, being in Ohio.

It sounded from what others said in another thread that I'm not paying a lot for grid, either, at 0.13/kwh. Combined with NE location payback is a challenge. Scaling depends on how practical payback is, and that is going to all come down to how much I can get in a year from the PV.

I do consider UPS a plus; so if I can break even in 7 years with the batteries, that would be one heck of an achievement. But UPS isn't just how much you can store in your batteries. The solar panels are UPS in a prolonged grid downtime as we'll be able to produce at least some energy on most days.

I understand the L to the panel connection. Very innovative, btw. I like that part, because you are giving it a lot of extra strength countering wind with the flat stock. Yours is the first time I've seen that done.

I don't see U bolts here, so was asking if there was anything more on the other side of the 2" pipe:

View attachment 2191

I could imagine them there, though. It makes sense.

I'm really loving the innovation in your structure, and am likely to adopt a good part of it.

See picture I just took and uploaded

What solar panels are you using ? And their specs ?

300 watt renogy I bought from Homely Desp

I understand the L to the panel connection. Very innovative, btw. I like that part, because you are giving it a lot of extra strength countering wind with the flat stock. Yours is the first time I've seen that done.

I don't see U bolts here, so was asking if there was anything more on the other side of the 2" pipe:

View attachment 2191

I could imagine them there, though. It makes sense.

I'm really loving the innovation in your structure, and am likely to adopt a good part of it.

Thanks for the compliment. Prod University of the internet n YouTube plus 3am cogitation!

What solar panels are you using ? And their specs ?

And regarding TSLA, I decided that LiFePO4 is worth the investment in both safety and cycle life. I did a lot of due diligence and haven't had buyer's remorse on the batteries, so I'm OK with that.

However, for expansion, you do not have to put everything in one battery bank. If I add inverters I can consider a new battery bank that could take advantage of the battery deal available then. A new battery bank would also allow me to consider a different brand inverter. Both technologies are evolving fast.

The only real complication is if you need 180 degree

My system has a lot of room for expansion due to ability to run lv2424 in parallel, and ability to feed more into that transfer switch... up to 4 x lv2424. I may be locked into 24v, though, with lv2424, whereas you are set with 48v.

I really love the flexibility of our transfer switches, making that side a once and done deal. I'll hook up all 10 circuits right away (shorting L1 and L2). Just can't obviously flip them all on gen at the same time. When I add a 2nd lv2424, one will feed each L. With 4, you'd have 2x lv2424 on each L.

I considered the LV5048. It is the better option if you don't mind the bigger up-front cost. The LV2424 can handle up to 2 kWh PV, though. I need to discover what kind of return I can get on that before I consider expanding, being in Ohio.

It sounded from what others said in another thread that I'm not paying a lot for grid, either, at 0.13/kwh. Combined with NE location payback is a challenge. Scaling depends on how practical payback is, and that is going to all come down to how much I can get in a year from the PV.

I do consider UPS a plus; so if I can break even in 7 years with the batteries, that would be one heck of an achievement. But UPS isn't just how much you can store in your batteries. The solar panels are UPS in a prolonged grid downtime as we'll be able to produce at least some energy on most days.

For my single phase generator I bridge the phases IN the cable....not the transfer switch therefore the lv5048 will feed both phases.

phase angle (240V), or you need to combine two inverters on one live. Both cases require the inverter managing the phases to be sure they are in sync. In those scenarios... at least today.... you cannot mix inverter brands.

Probably if I was a little less impulsive I would have done what you did.

Is that for OP (ebdesroches) or me?

Still not used to this forum
I attached some pictures some

What solar panels are you using ? And their specs ?

Renogy 300w. Specs on home Depot site

And regarding TSLA, I decided that LiFePO4 is worth the investment in both safety and cycle life. I did a lot of due diligence and haven't had buyer's remorse on the batteries, so I'm OK with that.

However, for expansion, you do not have to put everything in one battery bank. If I add inverters I can consider a new battery bank that could take advantage of the battery deal available then. A new battery bank would also allow me to consider a different brand inverter. Both technologies are evolving fast.

The only real complication is if you need 180 degree phase angle (240V), or you need to combine two inverters on one live. Both cases require the inverter managing the phases to be sure they are in sync. In those scenarios... at least today.... you cannot mix inverter brands.

I think if you welded a 1/2 inch thick box and put sand and LION batteries in the sand, weld the top...probably safe. I can weld but if you take it to a welder could cost something. 1/2 steel won't be cheap either.

Your gas car in garage is probably more dange

@ebdesroches do you have schematics and more photos for your array mount? I've been contemplating how to build a good wood mount. I like the idea of 2" steel for tilt adjustment.

Attac​

 

[ebdesroches]

Use stainless fasteners around 2 1/2" long with star head. Predrill ....drive screws in straight....otherwise strip heads...stainless steel screws I bought very soft. If you start to experience stripping head....back it out immediately and replace....otherwise may not go in completly

View attachment 2184

 

[ebdesroches]

Use stainless fasteners around 2 1/2" long with star head. Predrill ....drive screws in straight....otherwise strip heads...stainless steel screws I bought very soft. If you start to experience stripping head....back it out immediately and replace....otherwise may not go in completly

View attachment 2184

 

[ebdesroches]

Stainless screws used to bolt treated wood together.

 

[ebdesroches]

See picture I just took and uploaded

300 watt renogy I bought from Homely Desp

Thanks for the compliment. Prod University of the internet n YouTube plus 3am cogitation!


Probably if I was a little less impulsive I would have done what you did.

Still not used to this forum
I attached some pictures some

Renogy 300w. Specs on home Depot site

I think if you welded a 1/2 inch thick box and put sand and LION batteries in the sand, weld the top...probably safe. I can weld but if you take it to a welder could cost something. 1/2 steel won't be cheap either.

Your gas car in garage is probably more dange

Attac​

The 1/4" thick square tube is a good idea because much thinner tube will crush and not allow u brackets to bind it to galvanized pipe. Yeah ask me how I know! Also not a good idea to use solar panel frame to tilt array....maybe break glass solar panel.

 

[April]

On mine I laid the pipe out flat on the floor ,brackets under in the right places and welded them to the pipe . UBolts rust and break and carry on . Weld them so they are all in line and paint with good cold gal then some enamel after and they will last 10 years before a clean up is required.

The panels will take all that no problems as long as the flat bar is about 1/4 inch by 2 inch and two foot long attached at the ends.

On my next I will use 3 inch by 1/4 inch by 2 foot , just one piece where the panels butt and put some foam packer between then and squash in to try to waterproof the join . That way the dogs have shade and dry bedding under. If I can buy a rubber T piece I might use that instead.

 

[erik.calco]

On mine I laid the pipe out flat on the floor ,brackets under in the right places and welded them to the pipe . UBolts rust and break and carry on . Weld them so they are all in line and paint with good cold gal then some enamel after and they will last 10 years before a clean up is required.

The panels will take all that no problems

Very good advice. Everyone here seems to weld except me lol. I have friend that can prolly do some welding for me.

 

[ebdesroches]

I used stainless steel u bolts and stainless nylock nuts....should last a while. Also I can easily change the panels when more efficient panel become available

 

[erik.calco]

Thanks again, @ebdesroches ! Very interesting. I'm sure I'll still have questions; but, you answered a lot for now so will think about it for awhile then come back.

 

[ebdesroches]

YVW Pretty much you and others are the only ones besides of course Will that loves the hobby

 

[ebdesroches]

YVW Pretty much you and others are the only ones besides of course Will that loves the hobby

Maybe create a system block diagram for you and others

 

[Supervstech]

Lar lsls?

Sorry, electrician speak for the conduit bodies. Lsl =ell side, left LSR= ell side right... LB would be ell Back...