LV5048, 4 renogy 300w panels and 8 Battleborn batteries...in de box!

[Supervstech]

Block diagram

I think this image is just too far from the frame edge. If you cropped the pic before uploading it, it would be much clearer.

 

[April]

Yes thats readable now ta.

 

[ebdesroches]

Hopefully someone will find something useful. I jumped off the Will Prowse (thanks Will) springboard and this is my completed backup solar system. Here is a few specifics:
View attachment 2128
1. LV5048 5KW 240V split phase inverter. 72watt idle power
2. 8 battleborn batteries in this aluminum C&D (cheap and dirty! hinges put on with pop rivits....but otherwise clean and nice aluminum) Chinese tool box. used 1/0 wires as recommended by MPP. Box link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BRDW0VA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The batteries provide up 9.6 KWHR.
3. I used a 30amp DPDT switch on the input to switch between generator and utility line in
4. I used a Victron 712 to figure out what is happening
5. The 240 LV 5048 output is totally isolated to 10 critical circuits in the house by a transfer switch. I have built this system separate from a more expensive 20 panel on grid net metered system which I had installed. Building a separate backup power system allowed me not to cut into the main system and void the warranties....since its totally isolated. Well the input "TO" the lv5048 does come from the grid.
6. The mount for the solar panels is constructed out of primed, latex house painted pressure treated wood. I used a 2" galvanized pipe as a rotating spit for panel inclination with a small wench to tilt it (not really necessary but is convenient). Since the pipe weighs a lot I bought a 10' section and 5' section and coupled them. Used pipe caps on ends to keep the bugs out. The panels are bolted to a 1/4 X 1 1/4" flat steel that has a 4" X 4" l bracket welded to it. The 4" X 4" provides mounting for to the 2" galvanized pipe. The panels were safely lifted with tie down straps and a carabiner ring on the end. the carabininer if put on the tie down straps provides a ramp to pull the l bracket on mount over the galvanized pipe.

So far because of chimney and roof shadows I may be generating only a couple KWHRS a day....but this is winter and I guess I will get 5-6KWHRs in the summer when the sun is overhead and there is more daylight. I can always charge the batteries with my generator if need be. It a honda 3000 which I have modified to burn propane, natural gas from the house and of course gasoline. I bought the very large size propane tanks (5' size?).
View attachment 2126
View attachment 2125View attachment 2127

I'm afraid I haven't been too careful on the labels in my block diagram. 220vac should be 240. The output disconnect should read 240vac output disconnect.

 

[ebdesroches]

(your only getting 2kw a day? I am getting 1.5kw a day and this is November and in Missouri< I only have 4 (100 watt HQST)) panels.

For the fun of it I used a DC ammeter to check the current to see how well the MPP estimates power. I remember reading on one of the threads (somewhere) that the LV 5048 MPP is not to accurate on its measurements and display. So...it said 52W on two of the panels, the MPP says 69V and calculates 52W. I measured the current as 1.4 amps at 69 Volts = 96 Watts....almost 50 percent off! Could be that the LV 5048 unit is subtracting off its losses...which are around 50 watts...I dunno!!! I was happy to see that the real power was greater than what it said however.

 

[ebdesroches]

Hopefully someone will find something useful. I jumped off the Will Prowse (thanks Will) springboard and this is my completed backup solar system. Here is a few specifics:
View attachment 2128
1. LV5048 5KW 240V split phase inverter. 72watt idle power
2. 8 battleborn batteries in this aluminum C&D (cheap and dirty! hinges put on with pop rivits....but otherwise clean and nice aluminum) Chinese tool box. used 1/0 wires as recommended by MPP. Box link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BRDW0VA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The batteries provide up 9.6 KWHR.
3. I used a 30amp DPDT switch on the input to switch between generator and utility line in
4. I used a Victron 712 to figure out what is happening
5. The 240 LV 5048 output is totally isolated to 10 critical circuits in the house by a transfer switch. I have built this system separate from a more expensive 20 panel on grid net metered system which I had installed. Building a separate backup power system allowed me not to cut into the main system and void the warranties....since its totally isolated. Well the input "TO" the lv5048 does come from the grid.
6. The mount for the solar panels is constructed out of primed, latex house painted pressure treated wood. I used a 2" galvanized pipe as a rotating spit for panel inclination with a small wench to tilt it (not really necessary but is convenient). Since the pipe weighs a lot I bought a 10' section and 5' section and coupled them. Used pipe caps on ends to keep the bugs out. The panels are bolted to a 1/4 X 1 1/4" flat steel that has a 4" X 4" l bracket welded to it. The 4" X 4" provides mounting for to the 2" galvanized pipe. The panels were safely lifted with tie down straps and a carabiner ring on the end. the carabininer if put on the tie down straps provides a ramp to pull the l bracket on mount over the galvanized pipe.

So far because of chimney and roof shadows I may be generating only a couple KWHRS a day....but this is winter and I guess I will get 5-6KWHRs in the summer when the sun is overhead and there is more daylight. I can always charge the batteries with my generator if need be. It a honda 3000 which I have modified to burn propane, natural gas from the house and of course gasoline. I bought the very large size propane tanks (5' size?).
View attachment 2126
View attachment 2125View attachment 2127

I added a picture of a newly fabricated through box terminal. The old one was intermittent and got hot and burned a hole almost through a battleborn battery. The new one is made of bearing bronze (easy to cut on a lath or hacksaw and tap). The hardware screw, washer and lockwasher are stainless steel. These metals should provide long term corrosion resistance since they are close to each other in the corrosion table.

 

[ebdesroches]

I added a picture of a newly fabricated through box terminal. The old one was intermittent and got hot and burned a hole almost through a battleborn battery. The new one is made of bearing bronze (easy to cut on a lath or hacksaw and tap). The hardware screw, washer and lockwasher are stainless steel. These metals should provide long term corrosion resistance since they are close to each other in the corrosion table.

The insulator is plastic schedule 3/4" 40 water pipe and the collars are cut from schedule 40 cap....also could be cut from a schedule 40 coupling. Plastic pipe cement is used to bind the collar to the pipe. The collars are pressed together against the through wall metal. The water pipe should be cut slightly shorter than the conductor so that the screws will bind the wire lug tightly against the 660 bronze.

 

[ebdesroches]

The insulator is plastic schedule 3/4" 40 water pipe and the collars are cut from schedule 40 cap....also could be cut from a schedule 40 coupling. Plastic pipe cement is used to bind the collar to the pipe. The collars are pressed together against the through wall metal. The water pipe should be cut slightly shorter than the conductor so that the screws will bind the wire lug tightly against the 660 bronze.

The bronze diameter was bought as 0.75 but the actual size was 0.8...fortuitously matches the inner diameter of the pipe.

 

[jasonhc73]

The bronze diameter was bought as 0.75 but the actual size was 0.8...fortuitously matches the inner diameter of the pipe.

Are you able to get the software to work monitor the inverter?
I'm plugged into the USB and nothing.

 

[erik.calco]

Are you able to get the software to work monitor the inverter?
I'm plugged into the USB and nothing.

View attachment 3938

I'll be trying mine this week with LV2424. I would of had it hooked up before last night's 2-3 hour blackout if I wasn't busy over the holiday. Did you try the serial cable? I know that the software looks for a COM port.

 

[jasonhc73]

I'll be trying mine this week with LV2424. I would of had it hooked up before last night's 2-3 hour blackout if I wasn't busy over the holiday. Did you try the serial cable? I know that the software looks for a COM port.

My laptop doesn't have a serial port! ?

 

[ebdesroches]

Yes I got USB port working on my Lv5048 on my laptop.

I also got it to work off the WiFi card and box sold on eBay to work on the RS-232 port on lv5048 very difficult to make work. Secrets found by calling mpp....through eBay. Also if you questions on wifi unit maybe I can answer!?

 

[erik.calco]

What I'd like to try is connecting over the LAN to the laptop that is physically connected to it, basically sending the COM port over the LAN. The laptop itself has wifi and is on the LAN. I'll probably be trying this by this weekend.

@ebdesroches can you link to the ebay item?

 

[jasonhc73]

I spent the day away and let the batteries have a day...

Complete setup sitting happy at 54V. But packs are quite different from each other. Now running everything for an hour. My house with all the lights on, refrigerator, freezer, and heater (gas so not much load) and the TV and big computer, all using 10 or 11 or 21 amps total. One inverter shows 10 the other 11, so maybe they sum up, I'm not sure yet.

I love this setup so far.
I turn off the grid, switch the knife switch from load to supply, and turn the inverters on. Viola, entire house on, and off grid.

 

[erik.calco]

I spent the day away and let the batteries have a day...

Complete setup sitting happy at 54V. But packs are quite different from each other. Now running everything for an hour. My house with all the lights on, refrigerator, freezer, and heater (gas so not much load) and the TV and big computer, all using 10 or 11 or 21 amps total. One inverter shows 10 the other 11, so maybe they sum up, I'm not sure yet.

I love this setup so far.
I turn off the grid, switch the knife switch from load to supply, and turn the inverters on. Viola, entire house on, and off grid.

That's pretty cool!

If you have one of those infrared temp readers, you might want to take readings with that to check things are within norms when you test loads. I got one for $17 on sale at Harbor Freight. That is one of the easiest safety checks you can do.

 

[jasonhc73]

That's pretty cool!

If you have one of those infrared temp readers, you might want to take readings with that to check things are within norms when you test loads. I got one for $17 on sale at Harbor Freight. That is one of the easiest safety checks you can do.

Day 1 on my batteries.
One hour in and batteries are at 52.8V, last night I test ran them for two hours, pretty much instantly go to 52.9V from 54.0.

I have the wificard connected and setup for the most part, I have no idea how to make it send the data to the power-datacenter. It does help a lot that umm, you name the wifi network right, just saying, for a friend...

 

[jasonhc73]

Yes I got USB port working on my Lv5048 on my laptop.

I also got it to work off the WiFi card and box sold on eBay to work on the RS-232 port on lv5048 very difficult to make work. Secrets found by calling mpp....through eBay. Also if you questions on wifi unit maybe I can answer!?

I got the wificard going, mine is magical because it works off the RS-232 port without a 12V input. I have no idea how, it's amazing.
But it works really "more gooder better"? because I named my wifi correctly? so it's now "online".

 

[jasonhc73]

Yes I got USB port working on my Lv5048 on my laptop.

I also got it to work off the WiFi card and box sold on eBay to work on the RS-232 port on lv5048 very difficult to make work. Secrets found by calling mpp....through eBay. Also if you questions on wifi unit maybe I can answer!?

I can't get anything from the wifi data to show up in the data center. Did you get that part to work?